March 16, 2025
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Ask a Beauty Editor: What Is the Calligraphy Haircut and Is It for Me?

Ever wanted to pick the brain of a beauty editor? Or get beauty product recommendations from someone who has tried them all? You’ve come to the right place. In our weekly series, beauty editor Hana Hong answers your biggest skincare, hair care, and makeup questions, all submitted by Real Simple readers. Tune in every Tuesday and submit your own burning beauty questions here for a chance to be featured.

Reader question: Do you recommend the calligraphy haircut for all hair types? —Courtney Ponti

Despite its name, the calligraphy haircut has nothing to do with perfect penmanship. However, it does require a calligrapher’s approach of exactness to achieve the perfect aesthetic.

In other words, it’s less of a haircut and more of a hair-cutting technique, and it requires a very specific tool to complete. “A calligraphy haircut is an intricate cutting technique originated in Germany by hairstylist Frank Brorman,” says celebrity hairstylist Clariss Rubenstein. “Instead of scissors, it’s done with a long, thin tool that looks similar to a pen with a razor blade on the end and done at a sharp 21-degree angle.”

Why 21 degrees? According to Rubenstein, that’s the golden number for adding volume and texture with no blunt lines. Cutting diagonally across the end of each hair strand creates a much softer look and maximizes the surface area of the hair, allowing each strand to absorb the most moisture from haircare products. This means it can prevent split ends and help improve hair health over time.

Frank Brormann got the inspiration for the haircut from cutting flower stems. He realized that cutting the stems on an angle with scissors pinched the stems, whereas a sharp chef’s knife left a fresher and wider cut. Just like you should cut stems at an angle for the flowers to absorb the most nutrients, he figured hair should be treated the same.

Pretty smart, right? Because the blade leaves the ends of your hair more tapered and softer than it would with a pair of scissors, you’ll get a lot more movement and bounce.

This technique can be done on just about any hair texture, type, or length, including bobs, pixie cuts, and curly textures. It can even be done on bangs since it’s equally about sculpting as cutting. Since one of the biggest benefits of this cut is added volume, someone with finer hair will probably notice the most difference.

Keep in mind that because of the specific style of the tool and technique, hairstylists have to be specially trained in the calligraphy haircut. There are three different certifications—black, silver, and gold—for performing this type of haircut, so don’t just walk into any hair salon and ask for the cut without doing your research.

It’s always a good idea to call ahead and make sure your stylist has the right tools and experience. Based on this haircut’s benefits, a little more research and maybe a small road trip would be well worth it.

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