Laser hair removal treatments are some of the most popular hair removal methods out there, especially if you’re looking for long-term results. But up until recently, people with darker skin were left out of the picture—lasers couldn’t previously tell the difference between hair follicles and skin pigment, so those with dark skin were risking scarring, hyperpigmentation, or even worse, severe burns .

Thankfully, technology has made some improvements, and now there are laser hair removal options for dark skin that have less risk of damaging the skin. We spoke with the experts to ask the important questions—what laser is best for dark skin, what you need to do to prepare, and how to know if this treatment is right for you.

Meet the Expert

• Meghan Murphy, RN, BSN, is a registered nurse at Candela, an American laser company. She has over five years of professional experience working with lasers and energy-based devices. 
• Christian Karavolas is the president of the New York State Association of Laser Hair Removal Specialists. He is also the owner of Romeo & Juliette Laser Hair Removal, which has been offering treatments for all skin tones and complexions—specializing in dark skin—for nearly 20 years. 
• Dr. Azadeh Shirazi is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of AziMD Skincare.

Keep reading to find out all there is to know about laser hair removal for dark skin.

What to Do Before Getting Laser Hair Removal

If you’re trying to decide if laser hair removal is for you, there are a few items you should be crossing off your checklist before undergoing any treatment. For starters, research the laser hair practitioner and facility that you’re considering using—especially their experience treating dark skin tones. Since dark skin is more sensitive than light skin, Karavolas recommends that you ask the laser hair treatment center to see “before and after” photos of patients with a dark skin type who had undergone a laser procedure. Also, don’t be shy about speaking directly with the technician. Murphy recommends, “I would ask the laser practitioner how long they have worked in the field of laser hair removal, approximately how many patients they’ve treated with a dark skin type, and how satisfied those patients were with their results.”

To ensure your safety as a patient, following pre- and post-procedure guidelines are a must. That includes reviewing any medications and skin care products that you’re using with your doctor. In general, those with ingredients that create photosensitivity (think: AHAs/BHAs, retinol/retinoids, salicylic acid, etc.) should be avoided for at least one week before your treatment. If you’re using Accutane, it’s recommended that you do not undergo any laser treatment for at least six months after stopping medication to avoid the risk of scarring. Both Murphy and Karavolas emphasize that you should not overlook a patch test either. “It is ideal to have the practitioner perform a test spot in an inconspicuous area and wait for approximately 48 hours post-treatment. This is an added safety precaution,” says Murphy. Karavolas agrees: “Always do a test patch and wait prior to treatment. If the reaction is good, then you can proceed.”

And if you’ve decided to go ahead and take the plunge, Dr. Azadeh Shirazi shares her practical tips. “Don’t wax, pluck, or thread the hairs 6 weeks before your treatment. It’s also important to avoid the sun for 2-4 weeks before and after your treatment to reduce the pigment on the skin’s surface.  I suggest exfoliating with a glycolic salicylic solution like The One Spray for the body or Clarify
Pads for the face or folds starting a month before their appointment, but stopping 5 days before treatment. Avoid alcohol 24hrs before or and coffee the morning of your appointment. It’s
important to Cleanse and shave the skin the morning of your appointment. I suggest applying a calming medicated cream like SootheHC right after your treatment and up to 3x a day for 3 days to reduce the risk of breakouts and inflammation associated with Laser Hair Removal. This also reduces the risk of pigmentation from your treatment. Applying cold compresses after treatment also helps with swelling and inflammation.”

The Best Laser for Dark Skin

To figure out what laser works best on dark skin, it’s worth understanding how hair removal lasers work. Murphy explains, “The contrast between the color of the skin and the color of the pigment in the hair follicle is what allows the laser to easily pick out what to target.” As you can imagine, it’s easier to decipher dark hair from fair skin than it is dark hair on dark skin. However, thanks to advancements in laser technology, there are now safer and more effective options available for dark skin types.

Among them is the GentleMax Pro Laser. “[It’s] safe for darker skin types because it offers two wavelengths: one being a 755 nm wavelength or a 1064 nm wavelength,” says Murphy. Shirazi adds, “The safest and most ideal laser for melanin rich skin tones is the Nd:Yag 1064nm Laser.  Due
to its longer wavelength, it bypasses the absorption of melanin on the skin’s surface and specifically targets the hair follicles. As a result, it’s not as likely to absorb and heat up epidermal melanin compared to other popular hair removal devices like the 755nm Alex laser.” And since Nd:YAG essentially bypasses the epidermis, Karavolas also cites this wavelength as a safe option for dark skin.

Post-Treatment Care and Maintenance

After you undergo laser hair removal, there are certain things you’ll want to do and others that you’ll want to avoid to ensure you get the best results possible. “To reduce any redness or swelling after treatment, it is recommended to apply a cool compress, aloe vera, and topical corticosteroids morning and evening for five days post-treatment,” says Murphy. Karavolas agrees, suggesting any soothing cream after laser. “This can be aloe vera, vitamin E, vitamin K, or hydrocortisone 1 percent over the counter,” he explains.

You should also forgo any activity that may irritate the skin during your post-treatment care. For instance, exercise is discouraged for 24 hours, any bleaching, plucking, or waxing for four to six weeks, and direct sun exposure for at least a month after your procedure and/or throughout the treatment series, explains Murphy. As for how long a laser treatment series lasts? “Typically, four to six treatments are recommended,” comments Murphy. But, keep in mind that treatments vary from person to person. “Hair growth is reduced after each treatment, and the number of treatments required will be based on your hair color and type, body area, and skin tone,” she adds.

Risks Every Dark-Skinned Person Should Know

As mentioned earlier, darker skin types are more prone to side effects than lighter skin types. So if you have darker skin, it’s so important that you use the right laser for your skin tone. “If the wrong equipment or wavelength is used, your skin may get temporary burns or discoloration,” Karavolas warns. “Lasers for darker skin complexions have been in existence since 2000. However, most facilities have not spent the money to buy the right equipment,” he adds. 

“There’s greater risk with lasers in darker skin types as it’s harder for the laser to distinguish melanin in the skin (pigment) from melanin in hair follicles, therefore increasing the risk of burns, scarring, and pigmentation. Furthermore, darker skin tones are more likely to produce more melanin (pigment) as a result of inflammation. Given there’s inflammation associated with destruction of hair follicles using a laser, there’s more risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” explains Shirazi.

So as not to compromise your safety and to protect your skin, it’s essential that you take the proper precautions and only work with trusted and experienced professionals.

Article Sources

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1. Alster TS, Bryan H, Williams CM. Long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser-assisted hair removal in pigmented skin: a clinical and histological evaluation. Arch Dermatol. 2001;137(7):885-889.

2. Roche Laboratories Inc. ACCUTANE (isotretinoin) CAPSULES [packaging insert]. Updated June 2002.